Exhibition: Phulkari – The Embroidered Textiles of Punjab from the Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection

Exhibition dates: 12 March – 9 July 2017

Discover the beauty and cultural significance of phulkari, ornately embroidered textiles from Punjab, a region straddling Pakistan and India. In addition to stunning examples from the Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz Collection, this exhibition features traditional phulkaris from the museum’s collection and high-fashion ensembles by one of India’s leading designers, Manish Malhotra.

Phulkari, meaning ‘flower work’, is a labour-intensive textile made of vibrant silk embroidery on a plain-woven cotton cloth. Deeply rooted in Punjabi life before the 1947 partition of India and Pakistan (which split the Punjab region), this tradition has become a powerful symbol of Punjabi cultural identity.

Usually worn by women as large shawls on special occasions, phulkaris were also made as blankets or as furniture covers or hangings. Women of many religious groups – Muslims, Hindus, Christians and Sikhs (who consider the Punjab their holy land) – stitched phulkaris, with young girls learning needlework from older female relatives and friends. They often created the embroideries for their dowry, which they brought to their new homes when they married.

Some phulkaris depict animals and village scenes, while others display complex geometric patterns in bold colors conveying good fortune and social status. Whether figurative or geometric, all are rich in symbolism: after the 1947 partition, phulkari textiles became an important symbol for the new nation of Pakistan.

Over the past half century, phulkari techniques and patterns have experienced a revival, especially as a commercial art. As an emblem of pre-partition village life, phulkaris have been celebrated in popular music and videos. More recently, this folk tradition has entered the realm of high fashion through designers such as Manish Malhotra, who recently created a phulkari-based couture collection.

For more information, visit the website of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Exhibition: Indian Embroidery

ULITA - Indian Embroidery

Exhibition dates: open by appointment in January and February 2016

This exhibition focuses exclusively for the first time on the Indian collection, one of ULITA’s major – and particularly colourful – world collections.

Illustrating the variety and quality of workmanship found in Indian embroidery, the exhibition explores the techniques of whitework, quilting, counted stitch, chain stitch, mirror work, metal thread work and appliqué. Also highlighted are a variety of artifacts on which embroidery may be found, from puppets to slippers, hats to tent covers.

The text associated with the exhibition draws from the publications of Professor Anne Morrell (Consultant at the Calico Museum of Textiles, Ahmedabad), who has used the collections for her research.

The stimulus for this exhibition arises directly from recent ULITA accessions which have included exquisite examples of highly embroidered phulkari, torans and covers.

For more information, visit the website of the University of Leeds International Textile Archive (ULITA), Leeds.